Friday 28th June 2019

After a gentle morning in the sun waiting for other boats to arrive so that we could exit the sea lock at the end of the Caledonian Canal, we finally got out at 12.45.

Our exit into Loch Linnhe marked the first time, for almost a week, that we had to be concerned about tides and currents, though these turned out to be quite gentle. We passed Fort William in the sunshine, and our last Ben Nevis view.

After half an hour the wind got up and we raised the sails and sailed for a while, then the wind died and we motored and this repeated itself for a while until we approached the Corran Narrows where Loch Linnhe shrinks to a narrow passage about 400m wide. There is a ferry running across from one side to the other, and a lighthouse on the point.

For safety, and because the wind died, we motored through the narrows and on down Loch Linnhe’ southern arm where the scenery was stunning.

On past Ballachulish bay (where George spent a holiday when a teenager with his parents) and on past islands great and small, sometimes sailing, sometimes motoring, until we reached the approach to the hidden haven of Dunstaffnage Bay. A phone call established that we could have a berth for the night and we entered the very sheltered harbour with its moorings and marina. This is a beautiful spot as lots of people have clearly realised, and there were large numbers of vessels moored there, most of them sailing boats, including one 55foot yacht called Crazy Diamond.

We had a meal in the pub/restaurant on the quay where a rather loud table of ladies were eating and drinking. However the view over the marina compensated for the noise (mostly).

A seven minute trek back to the boat, and another day was over.

Thursday 27th June 2019

Left Laggan Locks at 10 a.m. approximately and motored in glorious sunshine along Loch Lochy, taking in the wonderful scenery, and getting our first glimpse of Ben Nevis, though there were many more views to come of this mountain which dominates the area.

At the end of the loch was Gairlochy lock, which was undergoing repairs, having large metal plates welded on to the gate by a man on a platform in the lock, so there was a delay of an hour or more.

There was a view of Ben Nevis, showing the snow in the gullies, on the way.

After the lock at Gairlochy we motored on along the canal to the head of Neptune’s Staircase, a sequence of eight locks, starting at Banavie. We were going to wait to go down the staircase until the next day, but were advised that a large (40m) motor yacht with a tender was due in Corpach at the foot of the staircase on the next day, and there might be no room to tie up. The lock keeper kindly re-opened the top gate and let us into the lock and we traversed the staircase at 10 minutes per lock with four other yachts.

We were in the bottom lock, waiting for the swing bridge to open for about half an hour. A steam train passed on its way to Fort William, causing the delay. Meanwhile the lock above had overflowed, causing quite a waterfall just behind us.

On to Corpach Double Lock and down into Corpach Basin to tie up for the night at about 5 p.m.

After a brief visit to a pub in Corpach we caught the train to Fort William.

There was only one train every 2+ hours, so we found a seafood restaurant overlooking a mirror-like Loch Linnhe. After eating we returned and bought provisions in the supermarket adjoining the station. Then back on the 2211 train to Corpach, packed away the provisions, sat and read for a while, made the beds and slept.

Wednesday 26th June 2019

We moved from one side of the canal to the other in order to fill up with water from the taps there, then motored gently on in glorious sunshine, with just a few puffy clouds.

We reached the lock at Kytra, passed through and on to the next lock at Cullochy. A short distance on and a wait at the swing bridge for five boats to come through in the opposite direction, and into Loch Oich.

The ruined castle of Invergarry was clearly a stopping point for the hire boats which were anchored there.

On to Laggan Locks which were quite deep, and into Loch Lochy.

We tied up at a pontoon, but were worried that the depth was not great, and the lock-keeper told us that Loch Lochy is part of a hydroelectric scheme and varies in depth. We moved to the “waiting pontoon” with the lock-keeper’s permission and spent a happy hour or two on the “Eagle” barge/pub where we had our supper. Back to the boat for a lazy evening, and another day had passed gently by.

Tuesday 25th June 2019

We were in no hurry, but on the way to the ablutions in the morning this sight met us, so we knew it was early.

We motored in low cloud through Loch Dufour (a small loch) leading into Loch Ness. We motored on, passing Urquart bay and castle.

We were making such good time that we decided, despite the wind being rather light and directly behind us, that we should sail along the loch. We “goosewinged” (one sail on either side of the boat with the wind directly behind us) down the loch at a good rate in silence and tranquility.

On reaching Fort Augustus we waited on a pontoon until the down lock traffic exited, then followed a large and smelly barge and two hire boats (not very expertly handled) through the road bridge and into the first lock at 1440.

One and a half hours later we exited the final lock and tied up on a pontoon for the night. The, now empty, flight of locks was bathed in sunshine, and we did a bit of shopping and had a nice meal in Fort Augustus.

To round off the day we had a visitation.

Monday 24th June 2019

Our hand-held VHF battery had expired, and having to go below to use the main VHF was becoming tiresome. Christopher and George walked (not far) to GaelForce Marine Superstore in Inverness to buy a new one. Back on board, after reading the manual (unusual I know) we set it up and have been able to use it ever since which makes life much easier.

We left Seaport at 1325 and went slowly to the swing bridge at Muirtown and then into the 5 lock system at Muirtown. There was a warning in the first lock:

We were instructed that when we had risen to the top of the first lock, two of us would disembark and walk the ropes into the next lock – and so on to the top of the flight. Very interesting. the whole exercise took an hour.

On to the swing bridge at Tomnahurich (also known as the Tombridge so that Sassenachs can pronounce it). The weather was misty, murky and occasionally raining quite hard. we continued along the canal in convoy with two other yachts to Dochgarroch lock, where we had to tie up on the waiting pontoon while a passenger vessel passed through the other way.

We went through the lock (manned by a single lady lock-keeper) and moored for the night in the canal leading to Loch Ness.

No pub or restaurant available, so Colin conjured up a chicken pasta dish which we consumed with gusto and a glass or two of red wine. A very peaceful night followed.

Sunday 23rd June 2019

The shortest day’s sailing so far (possibly ever). We left Inverness Marina after a very leisurely morning, filling up with fuel (a lot!) and doing a short hop from the marina to the sea lock (at sea level) at the entrance to the Caledonian Canal at about 12.30.

After the sluices were opened and the lock filled, Sansovino stood ready to enter the canal proper.

A nice member of the crew of the boat following us into the lock took a picture of the “Three Old Men in a Boat” – the first picture we’ve had of all three of us

After one more lock, we tied up in Seaport Marina at about 2 p.m. and decided to have a restful day.

A very peaceful evening. Lovely to hear proper birdsong instead of wailing herring gulls. Still water.

Sunday 22nd June 2019

We rose at 0530 and left Whitehills harbour in calm conditions at about 6 a.m. We had an uneventful passage along the coast of the Moray Firth. The sun shone and the winds were light, so we motored along at a reasonable speed, passing Portsoy

then the Cullen viaduct

then Buckie

and more cliffs until we reached the most northerly point of our route, 57deg 44′.438 N. at Lossiemouth where the Covesea lighthouse (disused) belongs to the local community.

We travelled on past Burghead where we saw a large industrial building that we could not identify.

It turned out to be marked on the chart and map as “Maltings” and, together with Roseisle (inland but close by) is the largest whisky distillery in Scotland, being responsible for 25% of the country’s output (the equivalent of 135 million bottles) according to Mr Google.

We sailed on through threatening skies and increasing winds (inevitably directly in front of us so we could not sail) past the entrance to the Cromarty Firth, where a large oil installation at Nigg was clearly visible.

We donned our wet weather gear as the sky was blackening. This had the desired effect of preventing it from raining!

We motored on into the wind (now more than 20 knots) past the narrowest part of the firth at Chanonry Point.

We then went straight down Inverness Firth, under the road bridge and made our approach to Inverness Marina and tied up at about 4.30.

We walked into Inverness for supplies and a meal at Sam’s Indian Restaurant, back to the boat and retired for a restful night with no need to rise at some unearthly hour in the morning. Tomorrow to the Caledonian Canal.

Friday 21st June 2019

The wind gods weren’t looking kindly on us this morning. The exit from Whitehills harbour looked very daunting between very high concrete walls with the wind whistling across the entrance, seemingly determined to bash us into the rocks, so we decided on a rest day.

The Harbour Master, Bertie is a lovely and generous man, and offered to drive us over to Portsoy, 5 miles away, where they are preparing for a festival over the weekend. On the way he acted as tour guide, imparting lots of interesting information about the area. He dropped us at the docks in Portsoy, we looked around for a few minutes and suddenly he returned and insisted that we come to look at something with him. It was this.

These Vikings are from Shetland and burn a wooden boat each year at the festival. Some were spectacularly dressed, and carried flaming torches. This was a press event and an intrusive photographer got in the way of many shots, but this man is pretty spectacular.

We walked round the town and lunched in the Station Hotel, seeing some great sights.

We returned to Whitehills on the bus (a double-decker going very fast down narrow roads) and after a rest, put a load of washing on and planned the following day’s trip. We shall go to Inverness ready for the Caledonian Canal on Sunday.

But finally, sunset on the longest day.

Thursday 20th June 2019

Whitehills is a small village just to the west of Banff. We left Peterhead after a lie-in (late night the night before) at about midday, thinking the short (36 mile) hop to Whitehills would be easy. Wrong! The tide was against us almost all the way and we didn’t arrive in Whitehills until after 7 p.m.

The journey was past some incredible coastal scenery with high cliffs and small inaccessible bays with occasional fishing towns. We weathered a rainstorm where the helmsman got wet (George at the time) but the cockpit didn’t because the rain, blown by the wind, was coming at us horizontally. We had to come closer inshore to avoid the effects of the tide, and a little after half way we passed Troup Head.

If you expand the picture, you will see the cliffs and slopes covered with white dots. These are thousands of gannets nesting. Gannets are also seen flying near their nests. A spectacular sight!

We were visited by four dolphins (or it might have been two dolphins twice though they were quite spaced apart in time and space).

The harbour Master kindly took some pictures of our approach and arrival in the harbour.

The entry to the harbour was via some rather daunting walls and right angle bends.

Now you know what the “Three Old Men in a Boat” look like at work.

Sansovino stayed tied up in Whitehills for a day, so we were able to get a picture of her moored.

On arrival we rushed through the job of tying up and managed to get to the restaurant, which closed at 8 p.m. Had an excellent meal, thanks to the friendly Harbour Master warning them of our imminent arrival, drank a couple of beers, and retired for the night.

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Wenesday 19th June 2019

We were unable to leave Arbroath until afternoon because the gates on the harbour did not open until 1230. Colin steered a careful zig-zag path through the multiple lobster pots (once bitten, twice shy!) until we were well clear of the harbour, then we turned north for Peterhead.

We were following another yacht on a similar course, both sailing before the wind (i.e. with the wind behind us) for several hours. After deploying our pole which holds the foresail stable, preventing it from continually collapsing, we overtook them (though we were still miles apart). We saw them take in their foresail and start motoring, and the wind dropped for us too, so we had to do the same.

We motored up to Peterhead past some spectacular coastline and past Aberdeen and multiple anchored oil-rig support vessels, After a ruined castle on the cliffs,

and a spectacular sunset,

we eventually reached Peterhead in the dark at about 2300.

The skipper contacted Port Control who told us to wait until a large support vessel had preceded us into the port. We followed him in along the leading lights and made our way into the marina at the south-east corner of the port. We tied up at about midnight, and had some soup, bread and biscuits and cheese. We were about to get ready for bed when the boat that had been following us arrived in the marina. It was called Windrush and we helped them tie up next to us. After a chat we retired – and so to bed.